A balanced and healthy not only captivates the viewer's attention, it also allow them to observe the subject's natural behaviour. When this is achieved, the endless joy and satisfaction is beyond one's description. In fact, at Biotope, we see the importance of achieving a balance between art and science. Hence, we constantly promote this belief to aquarists by recreating the experience with our Aqua-scapes. In many ways, the aquarium is like a painting; the glass tank serving as a piece of canvas, plants and fishes filling it with strokes of vivid colours, depicting a scene of tranquility and at times bursting with excitement.

How? You ask, will one be able to build a thriving and picturesque aquarium? Before you start, take a step back and do some fact-finding first. There are many species of aquatic flora and fauna available from your local fish stores, some wild caught, others usually captive bred. Keep in mind though to always take the time to read up on hand information or literature of the livestock you intend to purchase. Understand their needs and provide them an optimal environment. For beginners, try starting off with specimens that are relatively easy, and accumulate the experience overtime, gradually moving up to more difficult ones as you go along. This is not something one can jump into without basic knowledge, so take it at a pace you feel comfortable with. Learn the proper techniques and share your knowledge with others.

Before buying, it is recommended that your budget and needs be sorted out first. Choose the one best suited for you and save yourself unnecessary hassles by starting right. Safety issues should be your utmost priority, so always ensure the material used complies with national safety standards. Frames or cabinets supporting the aquarium tank should be strong enough to withstand corrosion and the tank's massive weight.

The tank size for a plant aquarium should have a height not exceeding 60cm, a minimum depth of 30 to 45cm and a length of 60cm or 90cm is a good choice for most. Most beginners start with a standard 60cm x 30cm x 45cm tank. These dimensions allow easy accommodation for sufficient lighting fixtures for the planted aquarium plus, it allows easy handling and maintenance work for the aquarium owner.

Substrate
The substrate represents the base of the aquarium layout and is the foundation for culturing essential bacteria that will break down harmful organic substances. Bacteria and the roots of aquatic plants require a good amount of Oxygen to grow. Hence, to meet this requirement, the substrate should be loose and porous.

A healthy aquarium will have an 'Aerobic' substrate base. It means having adequate water circulation between the layers of substrate, bringing along with it, Oxygen and important nutrients for the bacteria colonies underneath to multiply and stay active. Aquariums are constantly plagued by problems of organic matters such as fish waste. When too much of detritus accumulate over the course of time, they will find their way down into the substrate layers, in turn affecting the circulation pattern. With this disruption, the bacteria colonies will begin dying off and is unable to perform the task of breaking down waste effectively.

Another important point is to have a habit of removing leaves from the bottom portion of plants you will be planting. Leaving them intact increases the risk of these leaves rotting underneath the substrate. Consequently, the substrate bottom starts to decompose due to the large amount of dead matter, begins to blacken and turns 'Anerobic'. This in turn affects the water quality, pushing the ammonia and nitrite concentration to dangerously high levels, increasing the probability of Algae growth and other pathogenic problems. Catastrophic result is imminent if no immediate actions are made to rectify the situation. Therefore, it is crucial that the aquarium be densely stocked with fast growing starter plants during the initial phase of setting up. With a constant supply of appropriate CO2 and fertilization, they get established much faster and their roots could provide ample Oxygen for the substrate bottom.

The granule size should be a combination of between 3 and 5mm. Larger sized granules will usually hamper root development and smaller ones will crush the roots. Substrate not porous enough blocks the passage of important elements, and severely restricts the flow of oxygen to the roots of aquatic plants. Sand that is not smooth in texture, especially those with sharp edges damages roots easily in the course of planting. Once you lay your substrate base, it will be very difficult for you to change or clean it frequently, so be sure your substrate is properly chosen and set up before you proceed.

Types Of Substrate

There are many different types of substrate that can be found in your local fish shops. Unfortunately, a good number of these substrates are usually not suitable for use in a planted aquarium. These substrates will affect the water quality and chemistry values of the aquarium. For beginners, we will usually not be aware of such things and most times, sand is just sand to many. Therefore, it is always wise to check the origin of the substrate before you use it. Another way to check them is the use of vinegar. First place a sample of the substrate in a small cup, then pour some vinegar into it. Should the sample sizzles or turns effervescent; the sample substrate should not be used in a plant aquarium.

How Would I Know?

As mention there are various types of substrate commercially sold for use in the aquarium. They all come in different colours and sizes, but generally, we will divide them into a few categories.

1) Silica Based Sand - Mainly comprises of Silicate, used mainly for glass manufacturing, sand blasting etc. Does not alter the quality and chemistry values of water even in acidic conditions. Suitable for use in plant aquariums. Examples; Lonestar sand, Quartz sand etc.

2) Calcium Based Sand - Comprised of mainly Calcium Carbonate (CaCo3), used mainly for construction purposes. Alters the quality and chemistry values of water turning it Alkaline upon contact with CO2. Not suitable for use in plant aquariums and those that requires neutral and less conditions. Examples; Coral chips, Philippine sand, Marine sand etc.

3) Clay Based Sand - Comprised of mainly Clay contents. They are fired up in kilns with extremely high temperatures, causing it to break up into small pieces. They are loose and very porous, ideal for the proliferation of denitrifying bacteria, holds liquid well and has high CEC (Cat-ion Exchange Capacity). Alters the quality and chemistry values of water turning it soft and acidic. Suitable for plant aquariums and those that requires soft and acidic conditions. Examples; ADA Aquasoil, Calcined red clay etc.

Filtration
Aquariums are frequently over-populated with fish relative to the water volume. Metabolic waste from fish, plants and other sources build up and pollutes the water. The primary function of filtration is to remove unwanted substances from the aquarium and improve the clarity of the water. Although there are many different types of filters available, the aquarium filters achieve its purpose in three basic methods; Mechanical, Biological and chemical action. Filters rarely works just one-way, it is usually a combination of both or all the above mentioned.

The rule of thumb is to select one that has the neutral output (l/h) corresponding approximately to the triple contents of the tank.
Internal filter units basically consist of a powerful power-head and filter canister, containing some basic form of filtration media, usually foam cartridges. The water intake is designed to allow both water and air to impregnate the total surface of the foam cartridge, so as to utilize the greatest possible surface area of the cartridge. The foam works mechanically, trapping particles of dirt and floating debris. After a period of time, it will be colonized by useful bacteria that breaks down harmful organic substances, in turn converting them into non-toxic substances.
External filters have the advantage of employing filter medias that makes specific treatment of water possible. Their service life is particularly long, and comes readily available in many sizes for different aquarium volumes. When selecting an external filter, the rule of thumb is to have the tank content circulated about 1 to 1.5 times an hour.

Chemical Filtration
Chemical filters are often used together with mechanical filters. Their role is limited to altering the quality of the aquarium water. Activated carbon and Zeolite are two widely used chemical medium to remove chemicals and dissolved toxic waste from the aquarium. The addition of fibrous and granule peat in the filtration system releases Tannic and Humic acids, plus vitamins and minute amounts of hormones into the water. It also softens the water, lowering the pH and also acting as a spawning aid for certain soft water fishes. In the case of external filters, it works on a 'forced through -put through' concept. Water passes through all filter layers, extensively utilizing the entire filter media surface. With layered structure of the filtration media, it achieves the greatest possible effectiveness of cleaning the aquarium water.

Biological Filtration
Biological filters make use of bacteria colonies to help break down harmful substances into a less toxic form in the aquarium. Due to the limited size area of the aquarium, decaying plant and animal matters, urea and fish waste contribute to the buildup of toxic waste. If not removed, the water quality deteriorates quickly and imposes negative effects on fishes and aquatic plants. Ammonia (NH3) and Nitrite (NO2) produced under these circumstances, are highly toxic to fish. Therefore, nitrifying bacteria that grow in the biological filters are involved in a process called the Nitrogen Cycle, crucial in helping to decompose these compounds into a less poisonous substance. To sustain Biological filtration, mediums that provide a large and porous surface area are required to support bacteria colonization. Commonly used are Ceramic rings and Plastic bio-balls. The operation of the Biological filtration aims to achieve an Oxygen rich environment that promotes the proliferation of aerobic bacteria.

Lighting
Before we start to discuss this topic, we have to first understand the process of Photosynthesis. For million of years, all life on planet Earth run on solar energy from the Sun. Plants, Algae and certain bacteria are capable of absorbing and converting light energy from the Sun to chemical energy through the Photosynthesis.

It occurs in Chloroplasts and Cellular organelles that contain molecules of Chlorophyll that absorbs light. This complicated process depends on visible light from the Electromagnetic spectrum. During the course of Photosynthesis, Chlorophyll absorbs different wavelengths (Colours) from visible light. In the life cycle of all plants, Photosynthesis takes on a pivotal role. Similarly, it applies to plants in the aquatic environment. To simply describe Photosynthesis - Water and Carbon Dioxide are the raw materials for input, Chloroplasts as the processing plant, Chlorophyll the production equipments, and Light as the energy source to produce an output of Oxygen and Glucose sugar. The production of these last two elements prove to be vital for all plant life, sustaining the ecological balance in the biosphere and also acting as an important energy source for growth and propagation.

Different plants require different amounts of light energy for growth. Growth is limited by the amount of carbohydrates that are created during photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is limited by the amount of light energy available; required intensity and spectrum and the amount of nutrients and CO2 available. In short, we need to look into 3 factors - Light temperature, Light intensity and Light duration.

Light Temperature
Light itself comes in a variant of spectrum and we very often classify the spectrum as Light Temperature. The temperature is measured in Kelvins. In an experiment involving this issue, it is found that plant Chlorophyll is most receptive to Blue (4200k - 4800k) and Red (6450k - 7600k) spectrum during photosynthesis. Hence, we can see from the results that not all of the light spectrum is being absorbed by the plants, most of it been reflected, and it is most beneficial using artificial lighting containing Blue & Red. Depending on the type of plants and number of them, it would be best to use lighting with a light temperature that ranges from 6500k to 7500k in order to attain lush growth.

Light Intensity
Different aquatic plants also call for different light intensity. Hence, they are divided into two main groups - light loving and shade loving. However, it is interesting to note that either group actually has a saturation point for the photosynthesis process. That is to say that light intensity must equal the light requirement for it to assimilate. Generally, the saturation point for light loving plants amounts to about 1400 - 1500 Lux, and shade loving plants hovers between 500 - 1000 Lux.

Light Duration
Under normal circumstances, light duration influences the rate of photosynthesis. Should the light duration be too short, the rate of photosynthesis will thus be greatly reduced, in turn affecting plant health and growth. Aquatic plants need a definite daily light and dark cycle everyday, in tropical waters, the light duration lasts between 10 - 12 hours daily. Anything longer than this is strongly discouraged. In our own experience, it doesn't really matter which time of the day you turn on and turn off your lights, so long as the aquarium is not exposed to daylight, the plants will soon learn to alter their bio-rhythm in sync with the light duration.

Fertilization Program
Scientific literature has proven that plants require Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and several nutrients to grow properly. As in the case of aquatic plants, chemical analysis has revealed that the plant material contains Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Sodium, Potassium, Phosphorous, Sulfur, Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Iodine, Copper, Zinc and Boron in varying amounts. With the exception of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen, the rest are known to be Macro-nutrients and Micro-nutrients (Trace elements). Many of these are important and crucial to healthy aquatic plant growth, because they are needed by the molecular structure of enzymes that assist the chemical reactions of plant metabolism. Any one of these missing will lead to a 'Deficiency syndrome'. In other words, that means poor plant growth.

The Need For CO2
The most vital element for any plant to assimilate is Carbon Dioxide. Plants are able to utilize free Carbon Dioxide together with solar energy to facilitate Photosynthesis. In fact, the amount of CO2 available will affect the rate of this process. Most aquatic plants in their natural habitats are found growing along the banks of streams, shallow waters or moist areas with little water. This ensures the advantage of having easier access to Carbon Dioxide from the atmosphere and Sunlight. In the plant aquarium, it is even more important to inject CO2 in order to compensate the limited levels. Optimum amount is usually between 5-15mg per liter of aquarium water.

What happens when Carbon Dioxide is absent in a plant aquarium? During photosynthesis, plants use light energy to 'capture' CO2. This CO2 is then used to build basic carbon structures from which all plant materials are made. Should the plants suffer from CO2 deficiency, what happens next is a process call Bio-genic Decalcification. Carbonates are taken in by the aquatic plants, as free CO2 is absent, leading to the depletion of Carbonates in the water, hence, causing the Carbonate Hardness (kH) to drop to dangerously low values, in turn, making the pH value extremely unstable. Under this situation, fish and plants in the aquarium experience traumatic stress. With sufficient supply of CO2, the plants utilize the carbon contained in CO2, preventing the occurrence of Bio-genic Decalcification and the stability of the water is assured. Although a small amount of Calcium Carbonate is present in the water, we are not encouraged to assume they will be adequate for all specimens of aquatic plants. Every specimen has differing needs for the right amount of CO2. Plants like Rotala macrandra, Alternanthera reneckii or Ludwigia are not able to obtain enough CO2 from these Carbonates. Only a small handful of plants have the ability to do quite nicely in conditions where free CO2 is absent. These plants utilize available carbonates from the water to assimilate. With each frequent water change, comes a fresh supply of carbonates, thus enabling these plants to live and survive even without artificial CO2 supply. Plants that belong to this category include - Microsorium sp., Anubias sp., Ceratophyllum sp. & Ceratopteris sp.

Unfortunately, the majority of aquatic plants do not fall under this category and thus, they could only attain optimum growth with artificial CO2 injection. Should this group be deprived of CO2, they will most definitely be stunted in growth and would soon wither. Of course, we are not implying that it is compulsory to inject CO2 into the aquarium, but it does make a big difference on the aesthetics and optimum growth for your plants. Also, your choice of plants will not be severely restricted.

The Base Fertilizer
Studies have proven that plants absorb nutrients from both roots and leaves. Contrary to the natural habitat of aquatic plants, the substrate base we use in our aquarium mostly has large nutrient deficiencies. Many important plant nutrients and trace elements are not present in substrates. Under the Liebig's law of minimum, plant growth will be stunted or withered if a nutrient is missing, even if only temporarily. In order to ensure healthy plant growth in the aquarium, these nutrients have to be supplemented in the form of Base Fertilizers.

Substrate fertilizers possess slow release capabilities that are able to provide these important elements over a length of time, enabling nutrients to be absorbed in a soluble form. Substrate fertilizers contain essential levels of Nitrate, Phosphate, Potassium and trace elements. Most of these fertilizers are available in bags or tubs, are inorganic and has fine sandy textures. Once added to the aquarium tank, it should be leveled to form a uniform layer with an approximate thickness of between 2-4cm. Once done, add the aquarium substrate on top of it and level it again. Ensure the base fertilizer is well covered with substrate, so none of it could leach into the water later on.

The thumb of rule is to have 1/3 substrate fertilizer and 2/3 of substrate over it. Exercise caution when you start filling the tank with water to avoid any displacement of the fertilizer. Water should be directed onto a small plate or plastic bag placed onto the surface of the substrate.

Liquid Fertilizers
Liquid fertilizers fulfill its part as a fast acting nutrient supplement for aquatic plants, where they will be absorbed through leaves and stem structures to facilitate chemical reactions of plant metabolism. The absence of liquid nutrients may see the percentage of success greatly reduced. Fertilizers like these usually contain important minute elements such as, Potassium, Magnesium, Iron, Boron, Molybdenum, Zinc, Copper and Manganese. Plants lacking in any one of these compounds over an extended period will lead to 'Deficiency' symptoms. Therefore, the application of liquid fertilizers should not be discounted for a plant aquarium. With proper and regular dosage, not only will your plants get their required source of nutrients, but will also prevent any deficiency symptoms that could result in poor or stunted growth.

In general, a good and efficient liquid fertilizer should possess these properties:
1) Able to provide all required elements that aquatic plants will need for proper growth.
2) Each element should meet the required amount.
3) The elements should maintain its properties in a stable form for 5-7 days in the aquarium.
4) The fertilizer should not affect the ecological balance of the aquarium in any way.

The Right Water Chemistry
Water covers more than half of our planet and is the source of all life forms. The aquatic community is not only part of the bio-diversity, but also depend on the properties of water for its survival. Water itself is considered a total environment; it is a medium for movement acting as a carrier for gases such as Oxygen, mineral salts and other vital elements for the well being of fish and plants. Similarly, the aquarium takes shape in the form of a manmade biosphere with tap water being its main source in sustaining the entire aquarium ecosystem. Hence, success also means providing the right water chemistry for the aquarium, focusing on water hardness and the degree of acidity and alkalinity.

To understand this, we have to first look at the natural cycle of water. When rainwater falls through the atmosphere, it reacts with Carbon Dioxide to produce carbonic Acid. Upon ground contact, this simple reaction alters the chemistry of the groundwater. For example, if it falls on igneous rocks, the water remains low in dissolved mineral salts, meaning it would still be slightly acidic. Along the way, organic acids released from decaying plant materials will further increase the acidity, thus creating 'Blackwater' conditions. However, should the water come into contact with sedimentary rocks, such as lime-stone, another chemical reaction occurs, adding 'Hardness' to the water, increasing its alkalinity.

Carbonate Hardness and General Hardness
There are two types of hardness the aquarist should understand. First, the Carbonate Hardness (kH) or Temporary hardness that comprise of the amount of Bicarbonates in the water. These Bicarbonates can be removed by boiling the water, hence the term, temporary. The second type of hardness is the total or General Hardness (gH), also known as the permanent hardness. Water contains a combination of mineral salts like, Calcium, Magnesium etc that makes up the General Hardness. Water hardness is measured in a range of units but, most commonly used is the German scale of dH (Degree of Hardness) units.

Dissolved CO2 can only be fully absorbed by aquatic plants when the water kH level is between 3.5dkH to 4dkH. Therefore, the level of Carbonate Hardness assumes an important role in the assimilation process. To raise the level, Sodium Bicarbonate can be added to the aquarium. General hardness on the other hand is secondary. Its values do not particularly influence aquatic plants, but should not be exceedingly high or low in consideration of the fish specimens. However, at most times, Carbonate Hardness and pH will have a reciprocal relationship in a planted aquarium.

Acidity and Alkalinity The universal measurement of expressing Acidity or Alkalinity is the pH scale. It is a logarithmic calibration based inversely on the concentration of Hydrogen ions in the water. On the scale, a pH value of 7 is neutral, with values below 7 to 0 representing increasing acidity, and values from 7 to 14 denoting increasing alkalinity. Our tap water for example, has a common pH value of between 7 and 7.5. Most aquatic plants come from tropical regions and are usually found in water conditions that range from acidic to slightly acidic. Therefore, it is best to avoid alkaline water conditions in a plant aquarium. Generally, optimum values should hover between pH 6.5 to pH 6.8, as this is where most aquatic plants thrive best. There are certain species of plants or fish that may require extreme water qualities, so it will be best to read about their requirements before buying them.

Temperature
Temperature in the plant aquarium influences the success of an Aqua-scape. Aquatic plants are generally more demanding than terrestrial ones. Most aquatic plants are able to tolerate for short periods in water temperatures of between 16 to 40 degrees Celsius. When and if the temperature in the aquarium exceeds the optimal zone of 24 to 27 degrees Celsius, plant growth patterns will be greatly affected. Poor or stunted growth and even outbreak of plant diseases may upset the ecological balance of the aquarium. Other than plants, fish will invariably suffer as well in such situations as most do not tolerate sizeable temperature changes.

Water temperature can be lowered by means of artificial cooling systems. A chiller would of course be the best choice for this job. Although expensive, it has the advantage to cool a large capacity of water in a short time, and is able to maintain a constant desired temperature. The components in most are precise and usually have an error reading of only 0.5 degrees Celsius. It is a fabulous piece of equipment for aquarists who can afford it. Unfortunately, the cost of buying and maintenance is a deterrent factor to most.

A much cheaper alternative source would be the use of fans. Though not as efficient compared to the chiller, it is able to cool smaller sized aquariums significantly. A 60cm aquarium requires only one unit, as for 90cm to 120cm tanks, two or three units are usually more efficient to perform the task.

Artistic Composition Of The Tank Layout
The artistic composition of your aquatic plant garden is based entirely on one's preference and imagination. Throughout the hobby overtime, aquarists all over the world have adopted, combined and created various styles and techniques. As in all creative work, there is a strong element of aesthetics involved in aquatic plant layouts, so it is difficult to define the best style. But no matter how artistically a layout is designed, if the plants aren't healthy or the tank is choked full of algae, it won't be a pleasing sight. Conversely, even an awkward design will have some form of appeal if the aquarium plants are flourishing. Here, we shall briefly discuss the few mainstream Aqua-scaping styles and techniques.

1) Dutch - As the name imply, this technique originated from the Dutch themselves. The Dutch style of aquatic plant layout is based on the Western aesthetic of ideal forms and symmetry. The idea is to bring the western gardening concept into aquariums, replicating the orderliness of a flowerbed, which is organized by flower size and color. A tulip garden is a typical example of this style.
Aquatic plants are then divided and arranged into groups according to their height, colour, shape etc. They are then planted in groups at designated areas in the aquarium, creating depth and contrast among their uniqueness.

Dutch style aquariums commonly focused on plants, and sometimes do not even contain fish at all. If fish are included, they are usually present to either consume algae, or to simply compliment the plants. Dutch aquariums, although not as a rule, tend to comprise of high-tech units, with expensive CO2 metering equipment and expensive lighting systems.

2) Open - The open concept is actually rather similar to the Biotope style of layout. The idea is to allow aquatic plants to grow out of the water surface, creating a sort of wild, unrestricted and limitless look under and above water. Developed and used by the Germans for a long time in the hobby, this technique has not been widely adopted but can sometimes be observed in layouts from European aquarists. This style emphasize on submerse and the emerse culturing of aquatic plants. The layout is usually not symmetrical and pretty much resembles a Biotope like setting.
 

3) Biotope - Divided into two groups, this technique is used most times by extremely serious aquarists. The old school will spare no effort recreating the natural habitat of the plant and fish specimens. This old school is often labeled as purists in the hobby as they will painstakingly replicate every single detail of the intended Biotope. The new school, however, compromises with the replication of the Biotope setting with some plant specimens not native to the habitat, but still maintaining the 'look' and keeping fish specimens native to the Biotope layout. Adoption of this style usually requires extensive knowledge, and understudy of the plant and fish specimens that are found within the natural locale. In addition, a fair amount of effort is focused on the layout design with tree roots, dried leaves, petrified wood etc.

4) Sanzon-Iwagumi - This is an established Japanese gardening technique used in conjunction with the Zen technique. Often seen in almost all traditional gardens in Japan, Mr. Takashi Amano became the first to introduce this concept to aquarists. Using stones of various sizes, this style requires the careful positioning of stones in a triangular formation.

The largest stone of the three is usually positioned slightly in the foreground and the second largest, in the back right corner. The smallest stone is then placed in the back left. Keeping in mind to maintain a balance so that in the front view, the ratio of left and right becomes 2:3. Three imaginary lines that connect the center of each stone should form a triangle when seen from top-down view of the aquarium. Once the principle concept of 'Sanzon-Iwagumi' is understood, the shape and the contours of the stones have little importance.

The setup process is in Part 2 of this article